Rose Cut Diamond Education

What Is a Rose Cut Diamond?

The rose cut diamond differs significantly from the standard brilliant cut, as it lacks a pavilion and has a notably flatter shape. Its crown is a faceted dome with anywhere from three to 24 facets, arranged in two rows, with the central star facets forming the top. This is in contrast to the brilliant cut, which typically has 57 or 58 facets. With fewer facets, the rose cut diamond radiates a gentle, internal glow, creating a soft, subtle sparkle rather than the intense shine characteristic of a brilliant cut.

Clarity plays a crucial role in a rose cut diamond’s appearance. Because of its flatter structure and fewer facets, any imperfections or inclusions in the diamond become more apparent. The rose cut highlights the natural beauty and individuality of the stone, revealing its true character. Due to the reduced brilliance and reflection compared to brilliant cuts, high-quality rose cuts demand diamonds of exceptional clarity to ensure their raw beauty shines through without distraction.

Why is a Rose Cut so Special?

Unlike the brilliant cut, which holds its carat weight internally, the rose cut has more "spread," meaning the carat weight is concentrated on the top or face of the diamond. This design allows the diamond to appear larger, giving it a broader visual presence. Rose cut diamonds also sit closer to the skin compared to other cuts, creating a
unique, intimate feel when worn.

The old mine cut was especially popular during the Georgian, Victorian, and Edwardian eras. In fact, it was arguably the most favored diamond cut from the early 18th century until the final decades of the 19th century.

Due to its shallower shape and fewer facets, light passes through rose cut diamonds in a way that produces a soft, radiant glow rather than the sharp sparkle seen in brilliant cuts. This makes rose cut diamond jewelry ideal for designs that are light, delicate, and versatile, allowing the beauty of the stone to shine in an understated and elegant way.

The History of Rose Cuts

The rose cut, which predates the now-standard brilliant cut, carries a rich history and a romantic sentiment that sets it apart from more common diamond cuts. Thought to have originated in India during the 15th century, it became the standard for diamond jewelry in Europe by the 1520s. As a result, many of the high-quality antique diamond pieces available today—especially those from the Pre-Edwardian era, when the rose cut was at its height—feature rose cut stones, reflecting the elegance and timeless charm of the period.

How Are They Cut?

Unlike brilliant cut diamonds, which have a standardized shape, each rose cut diamond features a unique facet arrangement. This requires a meticulous cutting process that emphasizes the inherent beauty of the rough diamond. In fact, creating a single rose cut can take several days to complete.

The process begins with a careful assessment of the rough diamond's quality, followed by determining its optimal shape and facet design. Once the best shape is chosen, the diamond is marked with a thin marker and placed into a machine that creates a 3D scan of the stone. The diamond is then laser-cut into its initial form—whether round, cushion, oval, or another shape—before moving on to the precise facet cutting required for the rose cut.

Famous Rose Cuts

Rose cut diamonds have been making a comeback in the last ten years, with celebrities like Matthew McConaughey and Jennifer Aniston choosing this unique cut for their engagement rings.

Our favorite royals—Queen Elizabeth, Princess Diana, Kate Middleton and Princess Beatrice to name a few—also love to pull out their beautiful antique rose cut diamond pieces for special occasions; the royal diamond collection is made up of many rare and beautiful rose cut pieces.