What is old cut diamond?
Vintage diamonds are older, hand-cut stones crafted between the 1300s and 1950s, including early styles such as the single-cut and the old European cut, which later inspired the modern round brilliant diamond.
The key differences between vintage and modern diamonds lie in both craftsmanship and purpose. Antique diamonds were cut to sparkle under candlelight, giving them a softer, more romantic glow. Unlike today’s precisely laser-cut diamonds, vintage stones were shaped by hand with less advanced tools, resulting in unique variations in facets, proportions, and symmetry that give each gem its distinct old-world charm.
Types of Old-Cut Diamonds
Old Mine Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: Circa 1820–1900
- Eras: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian
- Shape: Off-shaped / Cushion
The old mine cut diamond is one of the earliest antique diamond styles still sought after today. Recognizable for its slightly irregular cushion-like shape, it was crafted using early hand-cutting techniques and became the first diamond cut to feature 58 facets, serving as a key predecessor to both the old European cut and the modern brilliant cut.
Its defining traits include a small, high table, large culet, frosted girdle, and uneven outline, giving it a soft, romantic sparkle that differs from the precision of modern cuts. Increasingly rare and collectible, old mine-cut diamonds are often repurposed from antique jewelry into vintage-inspired engagement rings, where their timeless charm continues to captivate modern admirers.
Old European Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: 1910–1950
- Eras: Edwardian, Art Deco, Mid-Century
- Shape: Round (slightly imperfect)
The old European cut diamond is the most recognized and sought-after antique diamond today. It is the precursor to the modern round brilliant cut, featuring 58 hand-cut facets—33 on the crown, 24 on the pavilion, and a small but visible culet.
Compared to modern diamonds, old Europeans have a smaller table, higher crown, and often a frosted girdle rather than a polished one. Their shapes are not perfectly round, reflecting the craftsmanship of hand-cutting. Though less rare than older cuts, genuine old European diamonds remain highly valued for their warm, romantic sparkle and vintage character.
Old Single Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 18
- Date Range: Circa 1800–1950
- Eras: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco
- Shape: Round-ish
The old single-cut diamond is one of the earliest round-cut styles, typically used as accent stones rather than centerpieces. Popular from the early 1800s to the 1930s, it features nine crown facets, eight pavilion facets, and a culet, totaling 18 facets—far fewer than the 58 of old mine or European cuts. Early single cuts display large culets, while later examples have smaller, less visible ones. Though simple, their charm lies in their subtle sparkle and historical significance.
Types of Antique Cut Diamonds
Antique Cushion Cut Diamond
- Facets: 58
- Date Range: Circa 1880–1930
- Eras: Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco
- Shape: Cushion
The antique cushion cut evolved from the old mine cut, refined with a more symmetrical shape and a larger table. It features 33 crown facets, 24 pavilion facets, and a large eight-angled culet. Distinctive traits include a small table, high crown, frosted girdle, and a soft cushion outline that varies from stone to stone.
Although similar to the modern cushion cut, antique versions differ through their large culets, fewer facets, taller crowns, and frosted girdles. Genuine antique cushion cuts crafted over a century ago are now rare and highly prized for their romantic, hand-cut brilliance.
Antique Asscher Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: 1902–1940
- Eras: Art Deco, Mid-Century
- Shape: Octagonal
Created by the Asscher family in 1902, the antique Asscher cut is a vintage version of the square emerald cut diamond. It is distinguished by a large, visible culet, prominent corners that give it an octagonal appearance, a high crown, and a smaller table (under 55%) compared to modern Asschers (around 65%). These features create a deeper, more dramatic sparkle that captures the geometric elegance of the Art Deco era.
Antique Emerald Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: 1920–1940
- Eras: Art Deco, Mid-Century
- Shape: Rectangular
The antique emerald cut diamond is a classic step-cut design celebrated for its elegant flashes of light. Nearly identical to its modern counterpart, it differs mainly by its visible culet, a hallmark of antique craftsmanship. Closely related to the antique Asscher cut, it shares similar features but is rectangular rather than square. Genuine antique emerald cuts are exceptionally rare, making them prized finds among collectors and vintage jewelry enthusiasts.
About Rose Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 25 (24 on the crown, 1 on the back)
- Date Range: Circa 1500–1940
- Eras: Pre-Georgian, Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco
- Shape: Various (round, cushion, irregular)
The rose cut diamond is the earliest known diamond cut, popular from the 16th to 18th centuries before yielding to more brilliant cuts like the old mine and European styles. Early examples were hand-cut with irregular facets and shapes, reflecting the limited tools of the time. The rose cut features no pavilion or table, instead displaying a flat base and a domed top formed by triangular facets that create its signature rose-like appearance. Its frosted girdle and transparent back add to its antique charm. After centuries of dormancy, the rose cut has resurfaced in modern jewelry, beloved for its romantic, vintage appeal and soft, subtle sparkle.
The Art of Valuing Colored Gemstones
There’s no universal grading system for colored gemstones such as sapphires or emeralds, but their value depends on several key factors. Color is the most important, assessed through its hue, tone (light or dark), and saturation (color intensity). The stone’s origin and whether it has undergone treatment also influence its worth.
Clarity matters too, though differently than for diamonds. Gemologists evaluate colored gems as eye clean, slightly, moderately, or heavily included, with minor inclusions accepted if they don’t diminish the gem’s beauty.
Our approach focuses on sourcing the most unique and captivating gemstones, always balancing rarity, quality, and visual appeal to meet the highest standards.
Overview
Sapphires are admired for their rich colors, timeless beauty, and exceptional durability. Although blue is the most recognized color, sapphires are available in a wide range of shades, including pink, yellow, green, peach, purple, and colorless. Each sapphire has its own distinctive color, clarity, and character.
Quality & Characteristics
Sapphires belong to the corundum mineral family and rank 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, making them an excellent choice for both everyday and fine jewelry. Their quality is generally evaluated based on color, cut, clarity, and carat weight, with color playing an especially important role in their overall appearance.
Care & Preservation
Sapphires are highly durable, but proper care helps maintain their beauty. Clean sapphire jewelry gently with mild soap, warm water, and a soft cloth or brush. Avoid harsh chemicals and strong impacts, and store each piece separately to help protect both the gemstone and its setting.
Overview
Garnets are admired for their rich colors, natural brilliance, and distinctive character. While deep red is the most familiar shade, garnets can also occur in orange, green, pink, purple, and other beautiful tones. Their vibrant appearance makes them a versatile choice for both classic and contemporary jewelry.
Quality & Characteristics
Garnet represents a family of closely related minerals, with different varieties displaying unique colors and characteristics. Garnet quality is generally evaluated based on color, cut, clarity, and carat weight. Rich, well-saturated color combined with a precise cut enhances the gemstone’s brilliance and overall beauty.
Care & Preservation
Garnet jewelry should be cleaned gently using mild soap, warm water, and a soft cloth or brush. Avoid harsh chemicals, extreme temperature changes, and strong impacts. Store garnet jewelry separately from harder gemstones to help prevent scratches and preserve its finish.
Overview
Emeralds are celebrated for their captivating green color, distinctive character, and timeless elegance. Their shades can range from lighter fresh greens to deep, richly saturated green tones. Natural variations and inclusions often give each emerald an individual appearance and unique personality.
Quality & Characteristics
Emerald belongs to the beryl mineral family and typically ranks 7.5–8 on the Mohs hardness scale. Its quality is generally evaluated based on color, clarity, cut, and carat weight, with color being particularly important. A well-cut emerald enhances the stone’s natural color while creating an attractive and balanced appearance.
Care & Preservation
Emeralds require gentle care due to their natural inclusions. Clean emerald jewelry carefully using lukewarm water, mild soap, and a soft cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaning, extreme heat, and strong impacts. Store emerald jewelry separately to help protect the gemstone and its setting.
Overview
Pearls are treasured for their soft luster, natural beauty, and timeless elegance. They are available in a variety of shades, including white, cream, pink, silver, golden, and darker tones. Each pearl has its own subtle variations in color, shape, and surface, giving it a distinctive character.
Quality & Characteristics
Unlike most gemstones, pearls are organic gems formed within mollusks. Their quality is generally evaluated based on luster, surface quality, shape, color, size, and nacre quality. Fine pearls display a beautiful, reflective luster and an attractive, well-balanced appearance.
Care & Preservation
Pearls are delicate and require gentle care. Avoid contact with perfumes, cosmetics, hairspray, and harsh chemicals. After wearing, gently wipe pearls with a soft, clean cloth and store them separately from harder gemstones to help prevent scratches and preserve their natural luster.
Overview
Opals are admired for their unique play-of-color and captivating appearance. Their distinctive flashes of color are created by the way light interacts with microscopic silica structures within the gemstone. Opals can display an extraordinary spectrum of blue, green, yellow, orange, red, and violet, making every stone visually unique.
Quality & Characteristics
Opal is primarily composed of hydrated silica and typically ranks around 5.5–6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale. Its quality is generally evaluated based on play-of-color, brightness, color pattern, body tone, transparency, and overall appearance. Because each opal forms differently, no two stones have exactly the same pattern or color display.
Care & Preservation
Opals require gentle handling and proper care. Clean them using a soft, damp cloth and mild soap when necessary. Avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, extreme heat, sudden temperature changes, and prolonged exposure to very dry conditions. Store opal jewelry separately to help prevent scratches and damage.
Overview
Turquoise is admired for its distinctive blue-to-green color and naturally unique character. Its shades can range from soft sky blue and vivid turquoise to greenish-blue tones. Some stones feature natural matrix patterns or veining, giving each turquoise gemstone an individual appearance.
Quality & Characteristics
Turquoise is a hydrated copper and aluminum phosphate mineral and typically ranks around 5–6 on the Mohs hardness scale. Its quality is generally evaluated based on color, consistency, surface quality, matrix pattern, and overall appearance. Rich, attractive color and a pleasing natural pattern contribute to the gemstone’s beauty.
Care & Preservation
Turquoise requires gentle care because it can be relatively porous and sensitive. Clean it with a soft, slightly damp cloth and avoid harsh chemicals, perfumes, cosmetics, ultrasonic cleaners, excessive heat, and prolonged moisture. Store turquoise jewelry separately to help protect its surface and preserve its natural color.
