What is old cut diamond?
Vintage diamonds are older, hand-cut stones crafted between the 1300s and 1950s, including early styles such as the single-cut and the old European cut, which later inspired the modern round brilliant diamond.
The key differences between vintage and modern diamonds lie in both craftsmanship and purpose. Antique diamonds were cut to sparkle under candlelight, giving them a softer, more romantic glow. Unlike today’s precisely laser-cut diamonds, vintage stones were shaped by hand with less advanced tools, resulting in unique variations in facets, proportions, and symmetry that give each gem its distinct old-world charm.
Types of Old-Cut Diamonds
Old Mine Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: Circa 1820–1900
- Eras: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian
- Shape: Off-shaped / Cushion
The old mine cut diamond is one of the earliest antique diamond styles still sought after today. Recognizable for its slightly irregular cushion-like shape, it was crafted using early hand-cutting techniques and became the first diamond cut to feature 58 facets, serving as a key predecessor to both the old European cut and the modern brilliant cut.
Its defining traits include a small, high table, large culet, frosted girdle, and uneven outline, giving it a soft, romantic sparkle that differs from the precision of modern cuts. Increasingly rare and collectible, old mine-cut diamonds are often repurposed from antique jewelry into vintage-inspired engagement rings, where their timeless charm continues to captivate modern admirers.
Old European Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: 1910–1950
- Eras: Edwardian, Art Deco, Mid-Century
- Shape: Round (slightly imperfect)
The old European cut diamond is the most recognized and sought-after antique diamond today. It is the precursor to the modern round brilliant cut, featuring 58 hand-cut facets—33 on the crown, 24 on the pavilion, and a small but visible culet.
Compared to modern diamonds, old Europeans have a smaller table, higher crown, and often a frosted girdle rather than a polished one. Their shapes are not perfectly round, reflecting the craftsmanship of hand-cutting. Though less rare than older cuts, genuine old European diamonds remain highly valued for their warm, romantic sparkle and vintage character.
Old Single Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 18
- Date Range: Circa 1800–1950
- Eras: Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco
- Shape: Round-ish
The old single-cut diamond is one of the earliest round-cut styles, typically used as accent stones rather than centerpieces. Popular from the early 1800s to the 1930s, it features nine crown facets, eight pavilion facets, and a culet, totaling 18 facets—far fewer than the 58 of old mine or European cuts. Early single cuts display large culets, while later examples have smaller, less visible ones. Though simple, their charm lies in their subtle sparkle and historical significance.
Types of Antique Cut Diamonds
Antique Cushion Cut Diamond
- Facets: 58
- Date Range: Circa 1880–1930
- Eras: Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco
- Shape: Cushion
The antique cushion cut evolved from the old mine cut, refined with a more symmetrical shape and a larger table. It features 33 crown facets, 24 pavilion facets, and a large eight-angled culet. Distinctive traits include a small table, high crown, frosted girdle, and a soft cushion outline that varies from stone to stone.
Although similar to the modern cushion cut, antique versions differ through their large culets, fewer facets, taller crowns, and frosted girdles. Genuine antique cushion cuts crafted over a century ago are now rare and highly prized for their romantic, hand-cut brilliance.
Antique Asscher Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: 1902–1940
- Eras: Art Deco, Mid-Century
- Shape: Octagonal
Created by the Asscher family in 1902, the antique Asscher cut is a vintage version of the square emerald cut diamond. It is distinguished by a large, visible culet, prominent corners that give it an octagonal appearance, a high crown, and a smaller table (under 55%) compared to modern Asschers (around 65%). These features create a deeper, more dramatic sparkle that captures the geometric elegance of the Art Deco era.
Antique Emerald Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 58
- Date Range: 1920–1940
- Eras: Art Deco, Mid-Century
- Shape: Rectangular
The antique emerald cut diamond is a classic step-cut design celebrated for its elegant flashes of light. Nearly identical to its modern counterpart, it differs mainly by its visible culet, a hallmark of antique craftsmanship. Closely related to the antique Asscher cut, it shares similar features but is rectangular rather than square. Genuine antique emerald cuts are exceptionally rare, making them prized finds among collectors and vintage jewelry enthusiasts.
About Rose Cut Diamond
- Number of Facets: 25 (24 on the crown, 1 on the back)
- Date Range: Circa 1500–1940
- Eras: Pre-Georgian, Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Deco
- Shape: Various (round, cushion, irregular)
The rose cut diamond is the earliest known diamond cut, popular from the 16th to 18th centuries before yielding to more brilliant cuts like the old mine and European styles. Early examples were hand-cut with irregular facets and shapes, reflecting the limited tools of the time. The rose cut features no pavilion or table, instead displaying a flat base and a domed top formed by triangular facets that create its signature rose-like appearance. Its frosted girdle and transparent back add to its antique charm. After centuries of dormancy, the rose cut has resurfaced in modern jewelry, beloved for its romantic, vintage appeal and soft, subtle sparkle.
The Art of Valuing Colored Gemstones
There’s no universal grading system for colored gemstones such as sapphires or emeralds, but their value depends on several key factors. Color is the most important, assessed through its hue, tone (light or dark), and saturation (color intensity). The stone’s origin and whether it has undergone treatment also influence its worth.
Clarity matters too, though differently than for diamonds. Gemologists evaluate colored gems as eye clean, slightly, moderately, or heavily included, with minor inclusions accepted if they don’t diminish the gem’s beauty.
Our approach focuses on sourcing the most unique and captivating gemstones, always balancing rarity, quality, and visual appeal to meet the highest standards.
Overview
Sapphires, the birthstone of September represent wisdom, loyalty, and sincerity. Though most famous for their rich blue hues, sapphires actually appear in adazzling spectrum of colors, from sunny yellows to soft peaches and lavender purples. Scientifically, sapphires and rubies belong to the same mineral family,corundum; when the stone displays a vivid red tone, it’s classified as a ruby.Some sapphires even exhibit multiple colors within a single gem, known asbicolor or kaleidoscope sapphires, prized for their striking and one-of-a-kindbeauty perfect for distinctive, artistic jewelry designs.
Provenance
Our sapphires are sourced from Malawi, Australia, Sri Lanka, and Montana(USA). We take particular pride in working with Montana sapphires, valued not only for their rarity but also for the responsible mining practices and strong environmental standards upheld in the region. Meanwhile, sapphires from Chimwadzulu Hill in Malawi have played an important role in supporting thel ocal community, helping to fund essential projects such as the construction of a hospital and an elementary school.
Preservation
Sapphires rank among the most durable gemstones, making them an excellent and lasting choice for engagement rings. To maintain their brilliance, gently clean your sapphire using a jewelry cleaner and a soft brush. For personalized advice or professional care recommendations, feel free to contact our store team for assistance.
Overview
Garnets are a diverse group of minerals that appear in a wide range of colors and have adorned jewelry and protective talismans since ancient times. Throughout history, both royalty and healers believed in the gem’s power to protect and strengthen its wearer. While red garnets are best known as January’s birthstone, we also work with an expansive color palette, from soft pinks and peaches to vibrant green Tsavorites and deep red Ant Hill garnets, each offering its own distinct beauty and character.
Provenance
Garnets are found in many regions worldwide, with significant deposits in Mexico and Africa, particularly Kenya, Tanzania, and Madagascar. We take special pride in sourcing Ant Hill garnets from Arizona, remarkable for their unique natural origin. These small gems are brought to the surface by ants as they build their tunnels. Native American tribes were the first to discover and cherish them, using the stones in ceremonial rattles or gifting them as symbols of respect. Today, Ant Hill garnets are collected directly from the ground, a process that is eco-friendly and non-disruptive to the ants or their environment.
Preservation
Garnets are easy to maintain; simply use a standard jewelry cleaner to keep them looking brilliant. For personalized care tips or product recommendations, please contact our store for assistance.
Overview
Celebrated for their vivid green hues and long-standing association with mystical powers and protection, emeralds have captivated admirers since ancient times from Cleopatra to Elizabeth Taylor. The richer and deeper the green, the greater the gem’s value, with the rarest stones displaying an intense blue-green tone. Because emeralds naturally form with visible inclusions, eye-clean specimens are exceptionally rare and prized. While we often feature oiled emeralds to enhance their clarity and color, we also source untreated and minimally treated gems, valued for their purity and rarity.
Provenance
Most of our emeralds are sourced from Colombia, renowned for producing some of the world’s finest and most vividly colored emeralds. We also work with select stones from Brazil, Afghanistan, and Zambia, each region offering its own distinctive hue and character, contributing to the rich diversity of our emerald collection.
Preservation
Emeralds, though stunning, are naturally more delicate due to internal inclusions that can make them prone to fractures. Exposure to heat, harsh chemicals, or strong light may worsen these natural features. To protect your emerald, avoid impact, pressure, and extreme temperature changes. Clean gently using a soft brush and an appropriate jewelry cleaner or mild, fragrance-free soap. For oiled emeralds, periodic re-oiling helps maintain their clarity and luster. For detailed care instructions, please refer to our Care Guide.
Overview
Pearls, long regarded as symbols of purity and fertility, are found in an elegant range of colors from white and cream to gray, pink, gold, and black. While any mollusk can create a pearl, only about one in 10,000 forms one naturally. Cultured pearls develop through the same natural process but with human assistance: an irritant is carefully inserted into the mollusk to initiate growth. Producing cultured pearls requires meticulous care, time, and significant expertise. Certain mollusks, such as the queen conch, giant clam, and melo melo, have yet to be successfully cultured. Naturally occurring matching pairs or uniquely shaped pearls like teardrops and cabochons remain exceptionally rare and highly prized.
Provenance
We primarily use responsibly cultured pearls from the Tennessee River, celebrated for their natural luster and untreated beauty never bleached or dyed. Our collection also features cultured saltwater pearls from the Sea of Cortez, sourced from the rainbow-lipped oyster, a close relative of the black-lipped oyster that produces Tahitian pearls. In addition, we work with rare conch pearls from the queen conch mollusk found in the Caribbean, treasured for their exceptional rarity and soft, natural glow. Every pearl we use is 100% sustainably cultured or responsibly sourced from deadstock, ensuring both quality and ethical integrity.
Preservation
Though durable, pearls are organic gems that require gentle care. Keep them away from chemicals, perfumes, and oils, as these can damage their surface. Store pearls separately in a soft cloth pouch to prevent scratching. To clean, use a soft, damp cloth only — never ultrasonic or steam cleaners. As a rule, pearls should be the last accessory you put on and the first you take off. For detailed care tips, please refer to our Care Guide.
Overview
The name “opal” comes from the Greek word opallios, meaning “to see a change in color.” This gem’s mesmerizing play-of-color results from tiny silica spheres that diffract light into a shifting rainbow of hues, giving precious opals their signature brilliance. In contrast, common opals lack this iridescent effect. Revered since antiquity, opals were once symbols of fidelity and are now believed to enhance authenticity and self-expression.
Provenance
We source a diverse selection of opals, including white, black, and boulder opals from Australia, pink opals from Peru, and smaller quantities from Ethiopia and Oregon, USA. Although opals are also found in Mexico and Brazil, Australia remains the world’s leading producer, renowned for yielding some of the most vibrant and high-quality opals available.
Preservation
Opals are highly delicate gemstones and require mindful care and proper storage. They can dry out and become fragile if kept in overly dry conditions, so it’s best to store them in a soft cloth lightly moistened with a few drops of water. Due to their softness and sensitivity, opals are ideal for earrings, necklaces, or occasional-wear rings, but are not recommended for engagement or everyday rings. For detailed maintenance tips, please refer to our Care Guide.
Overview
Though durable, pearls are organic gems that require gentle care. Keep them away from chemicals, perfumes, and oils, as these can damage their surface. Store pearls separately in a soft cloth pouch to prevent scratching. To clean, use a soft, damp cloth only — never ultrasonic or steam cleaners. As a rule, pearls should be the last accessory you put on and the first you take off. For detailed care tips, please refer to our Care Guide.
Provenance
We primarily feature 100% pure, natural Sleeping Beauty turquoise from the now-closed Sleeping Beauty Mine in Arizona, renowned for its vivid sky-blue color and flawless clarity. In addition, we hold a limited collection of rare Persian turquoise sourced from the historic Mashhad Mine in Iran, also no longer in operation. Both varieties are completely natural, untreated, and undyed, prized for their exceptional beauty and rarity.
Preservation
Natural turquoise can gradually change color over time, influenced by age and the wearer’s body chemistry. Contact with lotions, perfumes, oils, or cleaning agents can accelerate discoloration or even cause damage. If exposed, gently clean the stone using your fingertips with a jewelry cleaner or a mild, fragrance-free soap and lukewarm water; otherwise, a soft, dry cloth is best for routine care. Due to its softness, turquoise is ideal for earrings, necklaces, or occasional rings, but not recommended for engagement or everyday wear. For detailed maintenance tips, please refer to our Care Guide.